Even if you have never heard the name, you have probably seen Ait Ben Haddou. Its earthen towers have stood in for Jerusalem, ancient Rome and the cities of Game of Thrones. But long before the film crews, this was a living village on one of the great trade routes of Africa.
What Ait Ben Haddou is
Ait Ben Haddou is a ksar — a fortified village — built from rammed earth and mud brick on a hillside above the Ounila river, about 30 kilometres from Ouarzazate. Its houses, granaries and towers climb the slope in tight, defensive layers, crowned by a communal granary at the very top.
The village grew on the caravan route that linked the Sahara with Marrakech, carrying salt, gold, dates and slaves across the Atlas. Most of the buildings you see today date from the seventeenth century onwards, using building techniques that are far older. In 1987 the ksar was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site as an outstanding example of southern Moroccan earthen architecture.
Today only a handful of families still live inside the old walls; most moved to the newer village across the river, where there is electricity and running water. The families who remain keep the old houses alive — and many of them open their doors as small shops and tea rooms.
The films and series shot here
The combination of ancient architecture and empty desert light has made Ait Ben Haddou one of the most filmed places in Morocco. Productions shot here or in the immediate area include Lawrence of Arabia, The Jewel of the Nile, The Mummy, Gladiator and the HBO series Game of Thrones. Nearby Ouarzazate is home to large film studios, which you can visit on our Ait Ben Haddou tour from Ouarzazate.
How to get to Ait Ben Haddou
- From Marrakech: about 190 kilometres and four hours by road over the Tizi n'Tichka pass. It is possible as a long day trip — see our Ait Ben Haddou day trip from Marrakech — but it fits most naturally into a desert tour.
- From Ouarzazate: about 30 minutes by road. If you are staying in Ouarzazate, you can visit at the quietest times of day.
- On the way to the Sahara: almost every route from Marrakech to Merzouga passes nearby. Our route guide from Marrakech to Merzouga explains where it fits.
How to visit: our local tips
Come early or late. Between about 11:00 and 15:00, the tour coaches arrive from Marrakech. Before 10:00 or in the last two hours of daylight, the ksar is quieter and the clay glows a deep orange.
Cross the river on foot. A pedestrian bridge links the new village to the ksar. When the water is low you can also cross on stepping stones — a lovely way to arrive, and the classic photo angle.
Climb to the granary. The walk to the top takes fifteen to twenty minutes up uneven steps. The view over the Ounila valley and the Atlas is the best in the region.
Go inside a house. Some families welcome visitors for a small fee or a glass of tea. It is the best way to understand how life inside thick earthen walls stays cool in summer and warm in winter — and your money helps keep the buildings standing.
Respect the residents. Ask before photographing people, and buy crafts directly from the artisans when you can.
Combine it with Telouet and the Ounila Valley
If you have time, the small road from the Tichka pass to Ait Ben Haddou via the kasbah of Telouet and the Ounila Valley is one of the most beautiful drives in Morocco. Telouet was the seat of the powerful Glaoui family; its painted reception rooms are a surprise after the austere exterior. We often include this detour on private tours when the road conditions allow.
“Ait Ben Haddou is not a film set that happens to have people in it. It is a village that happens to have been filmed.”
Frequently asked questions
Is Ait Ben Haddou worth visiting?
Yes. It is one of the best-preserved earthen ksars in Morocco, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a natural stop on the road from Marrakech to the Sahara.
How long do you need at Ait Ben Haddou?
One to two hours is enough to cross the river, walk through the ksar and climb to the granary for the view.
Can you do Ait Ben Haddou as a day trip from Marrakech?
Yes, but it is a long day — about four hours each way over the Tizi n'Tichka pass. It is more relaxed as part of a 3 or 4 day desert tour.
Do people still live in Ait Ben Haddou?
A few families still live inside the old ksar. Most residents moved to the modern village on the other side of the river.
